To see her: A new fashion era for women, by women
Lavoir – noun: to see her. Fashion makes huge profits from women but so rarely puts them in control. Emma Davies is changing that. When Emma and her partner Toby moved to France and began learning the language, Emma heard ‘lavoir’ in an audio book and the word resonated with her image of the women she wants to dress in her new brand’s designs, and the ladies who make the clothes.
Emma’s vision for her luxury fashion brand is clear, as she explains, “Harper Lavoir clothes are ethically produced in the UK, made from sustainable, equal certified materials. The capsule collection is designed as a modern wardrobe to last forever, being worn season after season, to be rediscovered and reinvented.”
“I have a fire in my belly that tells me this is what my purpose is. With every hour of research, I become more passionate about driving ethical sustainability”
Tailored necklines, flared sleeves and split hems are just some of the details that make Harper Lavoir designs special. The clothes evoke a clear image of an elegant, sophisticated Parisian woman, but Emma does not have a singular woman in mind when she thinks of the Harper Lavoir customer.
“I’m targeting two types of consumers. One who is already knowledgeable and focused on sustainability, and one who wants a contemporary, effortless vibe and sees sustainability as a bonus that will make them choose Harper Lavoir over another brand.”
‘Women owned and operated’ is written proudly in Harper Lavoir’s Instagram bio, and as I speak to Emma, her pride in what she is building is as striking as the clothes themselves.
“In fashion supply chains, most garment workers are women. I don’t believe you can feel confident and empowered in an outfit that another woman was exploited to make. I am bringing women into the business to treat them with the respect they deserve. You can't make systematic change without making the right choices within your team.”
“It’s a non-negotiable for me to meet the women who are making the clothes so the brand can celebrate those ladies. It means a lot to me to see women succeed and empowering them to charge fees that match the value of their work. Every woman at every level of the supply chain has been handpicked because their values align with mine. I designed the collection, but the pattern cutters, machine techs, and manufacturers I’ve brought in are all like-minded women.
A bio-med student who turned her hand to fashion buying, Harper Lavoir’s launch represents a metamorphosis for Emma as much as it does for the fashion landscape.
“I have a fire in my belly that tells me this is what my purpose is. With every hour of research, I become more passionate about driving ethical sustainability. In my first buying role at a fast fashion brand, I was excited for my first job in fashion, but it was eye opening to learn the truth. I was shocked because I've loved fashion for so long, but what I learnt working in the industry was disappointing. Even when I moved to higher-end retail, there was still no focus on sustainability.”
Being value-driven is becoming the norm for brands, but so often cult favourites that win consumers’ hearts by championing a cause eventually see their downfall as the truth emerges that discrepancies lie not too far beneath the surface. Emma has taken every step necessary to ensure that isn’t the case for Harper Lavoir.
“There are three pillars in my value system. Animal, human, and environmental welfare. I’m strict with going through everything with a fine-tooth comb to make sure it aligns with those three values.”
“There are so many vital elements to building a brand that is truly ethical. The biggest challenge has been finding fabric that I have been sure is the right fit. It was non-negotiable to use sustainable fabrics and to follow a transparent supply chain. The materials are all sustainable natural fibres that can go back into the earth and be recycled. In the production process, everything is made to order, so I have a small number of units, letting me manage demand and avoid waste. I won’t have units that go to landfill.”
“For example, I'm using a biodegradable material called Tencel from Lenzing, a company which has managed forests and recycles the water from manufacturing into making the next batch, so it’s a part of a closed loop cycle.”
“There are three pillars in my value system. Animal, human, and environmental welfare. I’m strict with going through everything with a fine-tooth comb to make sure it aligns with those three values.”
Rare is the consumer who is blind to the ethical issues that are endemic to the fashion industry, and Emma sees education as the power that will enable people to make sustainable purchases.
“Greenwashing is systemic throughout the whole industry. People are struggling to trust brands and know what sustainability truly means. There are no regulations, so it’s up to us to make brands accountable. Education is the barrier people are facing - they don't know who to trust or what they're looking for.”
“Harper Lavoir’s website explains each certificate, so people understand what they mean. Product pages feature sustainability information and certificates for each product, so shoppers know where fabrics come from and what they are made of.”
Fashion rental companies caused a stir when they launched to offer occasion wear on a hire-by-the-day basis, solving the problem of buying pieces for weddings or events that even the eco-conscious would be reluctant to repeat an outfit for. As Head Buyer, Emma played a key role in the growth of the market-leading fashion rental business, Hirestreet, but soon saw that the issue of waste runs deeper than one-time wear pieces.
“It was amazing to be helping create an accessible solution. It made a huge impact that the clothes were going to be re-worn by so many different customers. Even so, the clothes were made with polyester. Although resale and rental are amazing, it's not the full solution.”
Emma continues, “Everyone has their core wardrobe, and they need sustainable options for the staple pieces that you want to reach for every day. Sustainability needs to be at the heart of the brand. It needs to start with the design process, continuing through to the materials and production.”
“Greenwashing is systemic throughout the whole industry. People are struggling to trust brands and know what sustainability truly means. There are no regulations, so it’s up to us to make brands accountable. Education is the barrier people are facing - they don't know who to trust or what they're looking for.”
Despite years of modelling with agencies in the North East, Emma is here on shoot day wearing pieces from the inaugural collection, not as the face of the brand, but as its guardian.
“The reason the brand started was because of the passion that I have for ending exploitation of garment workers, so ethical production is a cause close to my heart. The aesthetics of the clothes are connected to my style too. I’m creating something that I have been looking for. I've been the face of brands before but the last thing I want now is to see myself on the product pages. I want the clothes to speak for themselves.”
Launching Harper Lavoir has been an emotional process for Emma. She explains, “For a long time it has just been me with the support of my partner and my mom. I'm lowkey and didn't tell anyone until it was ready.”
If you have taken even a quick glance at Harper Lavoir’s teaser content, you’ll know the photography was taken in the City of Light.
“I've taken inspiration from French architecture and Parisian style, so the shoot was a pivotal moment seeing it in the setting that inspired it. It was rewarding to see all the work and research come to life, because for so long it’s all lived in my mind.”
“In fashion supply chains, most garment workers are women. I don’t believe you can feel confident and empowered in an outfit that another woman was exploited to make.”
I ask on behalf of us all when we’ll be able to shop from Harper Lavoir, and the eagerly awaited launch date is set for 20th June, as Emma works to make sure everything is exactly as she envisions before going to market. In the same vein, the luxury brand will not follow the traditionally rapid seasonal fashion calendar.
“I see the product releases being very fluid. I've been very careful with the launch and not describing it as Spring Summer 23 collection because it's not. It's intended to be for now and next winter and the winter in five years.”
Emma’s patience in curating Harper Lavoir is not only paying off from a brand perspective, but also a personal one. Any business founder will know how much is poured into bringing their vision to life, but Emma has kept a cool head.
“Even though I’m working a lot I’m balancing it with my personal life. I've worked for a startup, and it showed me how to put your all into the business without it negatively impacting your personal life.”
Emma’s calmness shows she is a natural business leader. She says: “Founding has been harder than I expected, but it suits me. I've always had strong visions of how things should work, and when you work for someone else you have to box that up. After this, there's no way I could work for someone else.”
Talking with Emma, I have the impression of a humble yet assured young entrepreneur, but as so many can relate, Emma has her own moments of uncertainty. She shares with me, “It’s scary, because I’m just a one-woman band, but when it’s overwhelming, I tell myself, ‘This is what you dreamt of, and the struggle will pass’. I feel like I'm very much at the beginning of my journey and I’m excited about the learning curve.”
There is a long road ahead to make ethical consumerism the norm not just in fashion, but in all areas of our lives. Thankfully, in Emma we can see a bright beacon of hope, as well as an inspiration for us all that we can live our purpose without letting challenge or doubt get in the way.